Introduction
The Hundred Years' War between England and France lasted from 1337 to 1453. This prolonged conflict saw highs and lows for both sides, but by the early fifteenth century, England seemed to have the upper hand. In 1429, the situation looked dire for the French: the English and Burgundians had taken over large parts of France and were squabbling amongst themselves over who should claim the throne. The French dauphin (heir to the throne) Charles VII was disheartened by his losses and was losing his grip even on the parts of France still under his control. He was even mockingly referred to by his own subjects as 'the King of Bourges,' since he barely left this town while his enemies gradually conquered more of French territory. At the same time, a 17-year-old girl in the French village of Domrémy began hearing voices and having visions of angels and saints, who told her that God had given her a sacred mission to see Charles ascend to the throne. This girl was Jeanne d’Arc, the famous female French military leader who, in just two years, would turn the tide of the war.
Despite opposition from the Church and Charles' court, she managed to convince the despondent dauphin of her divine mission. She was provided with a horse, armor, and a small French army under her command, with which she soon achieved spectacular victories. Her success in the Siege of Orléans not only inspired her own troops but also the rest of the French forces. Charles was officially crowned King of France while his enemies were driven back. Her leadership ushered in a new phase of the war, in which France slowly began to regain the territory conquered by her enemies. However, her own fortunes did not last long; when Jeanne was captured by the Burgundians and English in 1430 and condemned to be burned at the stake, Charles did nothing to help her. In 1431, despite protests from her companions, she was burned as a witch and cursed by the Church. This status remained for nearly 500 years until she was exonerated and canonized by the Catholic Church in 1920. To this day, she is considered one of France's greatest heroes.
Since the fifteenth century, there has been much discussion about how she broke social norms and the position assigned to women. There was uproar over the fact that she dressed as a man on the battlefield and gave orders to men; her enemies portrayed her as a witch because of this. Jeanne’s allies and soldiers were less concerned with the ‘role’ she was assigned as a woman and focused more on the victories she achieved. To them, she was not 'man' or 'woman,' but the leader who took action to reclaim France. Both civilians, soldiers, and noble knights followed her leadership without question. Despite the official stance of the Church, many important figures, such as the Archbishop of Embrun, risked their positions by advocating for her exoneration. The unparalleled respect she commanded among her troops and companions was well-documented by her contemporaries.
In this blog, we provide an interpretation of the clothing, equipment, and armor that Jeanne d’Arc is believed to have worn. This will allow you to create your own depiction of one of the most studied (female) figures in history.
Outfit
Jeanne had two different outfit options: In her early life, she dressed according to the contemporary female fashion, but when leading the French army, she would have worn a military (male) outfit. This caused considerable controversy as it broke many social norms; during her trial, this would even be used as evidence of her 'witchcraft.' Many figures in the Church, both in her time and after her execution, argued that her male attire was not a valid reason for prosecution. It is unclear whether Jeanne had specific reasons for wearing male clothing beyond its practicality for her military role.
Option 1: Everyday Women’s Clothing
Jeanne d’Arc's first outfit consisted of a cotehardie with an underdress, shoes, and a belt with a pouch. This would have been the simple outfit she wore during her life as a peasant girl.
Cotehardie
The cotehardie was a long, flowing garment that was fashionable during the late Middle Ages for both women and men. Bright colors were preferred, contrary to how this period is often depicted. If they could afford it, their clothing was richly decorated, but even without embellishments, clothing in the Middle Ages was very expensive. In the summer, Jeanne would have worn a cotehardie with short sleeves, but a long-sleeved model in the winter.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/cotehardie-odilia-green.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/cotehardie-christina-wine-red.html
Jeanne also wears an underdress beneath her cotehardie. By wearing undergarments, medieval clothing stayed less soiled from the body and the outer layer needed to be washed less frequently, which helped it retain its color for longer.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/underdress-annecke-78005771.html
Rosary
Late medieval Europe was predominantly (Catholic) Christian. In these turbulent times, piety was considered important because death could be around any corner (memento mori). The rosary was developed as a tool for ordinary people to recite prayers. It consisted of a wooden cross with various beads, each representing a different prayer. The medieval ‘Carthusian’ variant that Jeanne would have used was particularly associated with Mary, the mother of Jesus. The rosary became very popular among common people in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, and was also often worn by soldiers on the battlefield to pray without a church nearby or to say a quick prayer.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/15th-century-rosary.html
Shoes
In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, pointed shoes were popular. Over time, the fashion trend was to make these shoes increasingly longer and pointier.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/late-medieval-shoes-linhard.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/medieval-poulaines-1200-1400.html
Option 2: Military Clothing
The military outfit that Jeanne wore consisted of a coif, surcoat or arming doublet, hose, and a belt with her dagger and sword. The devout Jeanne would still have kept her rosary close at hand.
Coif
The coif was a medieval garment originally intended as a hood to protect the head from rain and cold. In the fourteenth century, it became fashionable among the nobility and bourgeoisie to wear the coif as a type of turban by turning it inside out.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/chaperon-rogier-van-der-weyden-wool-burgundy.html
Surcoat
This garment evolved from the tabard that knights wore over their armor in earlier centuries to identify each other on the battlefield. However, by the fourteenth and early fifteenth centuries, it was also worn on its own. Jeanne wore this garment to make herself visible as a military leader both on the battlefield and in daily life.
Many garments from this period were also worn in a half-and-half color pattern, known as Mi-parti. This type of surcoat is available in various halves, allowing you to mix and match colors yourself.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/search/Surcot%20Aleran/
Jeanne also wore an undershirt under the surcoat. By wearing undergarments, medieval clothing stayed less soiled from the body, and the outer layer needed to be washed less frequently, which helped it retain its color longer.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/shirt-ulrich-natural.html
Arming Doublet
In the fifteenth century, fashion shifted from long, flowing garments to short, close-fitting clothing. Men began wearing doublets, which ended around the hips and emphasized the chest and waist. Full-length breeches also started to come into fashion as a result. Jeanne wore this garment not only to accommodate her armor but also to signify her important status as a female military leader.
A gambeson provided a layer of padded protection under mail and plate armor but was worn on its own by poorer soldiers. With advancements in armor, thick gambesons became obsolete for knights, who began to wear a thinner, lighter padded version that also aligned with contemporary fashion, known as the arming doublet. This close-fitting version of the gambeson allowed for the attachment of armor pieces that conformed well to the body.
In Italy, the arming doublet was even worn as regular clothing by civilians and non-military nobility to convey a martial appearance, similar to how combat boots or camouflage clothing are worn today.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/15th-century-black-arming-doublet-canvas-cotton.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/15th-century-acketon.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/15th-century-doublet-red.html
Breeches with Hose
In the fourteenth and early fifteenth centuries, men generally wore hose (chausses). These long stockings were fastened to the breeches (braies) and usually worn under long garments. Jeanne wore breeches with hose to support her armor.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/trousers-gisbert.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/medieval-chausses-with-laces-red.html
During this period, there was also a gradual transition to full-length trousers. Choosing between chausses or trousers was a personal decision.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/mi-parti-pants-gustav-black-red.html
TIP: Hose and fifteenth-century trousers should fit tightly to the body. In the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries, it was common to tie a lace or leather cord just below the knee to keep trousers and hose tight and well-fitted on the legs. This is a matter of personal preference but adds historical detail to your outfit.
Belt
People of all social classes attached pouches and other useful items to their belts. When assembling your outfit, consider what you would find important to carry in your daily life as Jeanne, such as your cutlery as well as your sword.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/14th-15th-century-belt-beaufort-brown.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/bag-with-three-compartments.html
Shoes
In the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, pointed shoes were worn. Over time, the fashion trend was to make these shoes increasingly longer and pointier. On the battlefield, however, the design of the shoes became more practical, with the points being less extreme to prevent tripping during combat.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/late-medieval-shoes-linhard.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/medieval-poulaines-1200-1400.html
Weapons and Armor
Jeanne was known for leading her men on the battlefield in full armor. Her armor was custom-made, and she is said to have worn it during combat: there are even multiple primary sources that mention she did not remove this armor until a battle was over, despite the severe injuries she sustained. Jeanne's armor consisted of a cuirass, an open helm, full arm and shoulder armor, and thigh armor.
TIP: Throughout the medieval period, knights had squires or other attendants to help them put on their armor: plate armor was almost never designed to be donned by the wearer alone. Read about how to put on armor here. We recommend asking someone to assist you with fitting, donning, and adjusting your armor. Note: the armor we sell is not custom-made, which means it may not fit all body types. For instance, cuirasses and greaves are usually designed for a male figure, but armor pieces can be bent and modified to better fit your body.
Cuirass
Jeanne wears a cuirass that protects her entire torso. Unlike earlier breastplates such as those from the Churburg armor, the lower abdomen and hips are covered with articulating steel plates. These can also be detached from the cuirass.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/churburg-cuirass-s18.html
Open helmet
Jeanne’s armor is often depicted with an open helmet; in our reconstruction, this takes the form of a kettle hat. Open helmets were worn during this period to provide better visibility and aid in giving commands. This was particularly useful when the threat from the enemy was not immediate, though some military leaders preferred open helms on the battlefield. You can choose which type of helmet you use in your assembly. Here are examples of open helmets from this period:
Kettle Hat
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/kettle-hat-14th-15th-century-2-mm.html
Bascinet
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/bascinet-basic.html
Sallet
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/open-sallet-agincourt.html
Arm and Shoulder Armor
Jeanne wears large shoulder plates and a close-fitting arm armor. The shoulder plates also protect her collarbones and are large enough that she does not need besagews to protect her armpits. The arm pieces feature a large plate to fully protect the elbow and provide freedom of movement. Both are attached to her arming doublet with laces.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/arm-armor-1450-1550-16-mm.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/german-pauldrons-1460-1500.html
Thigh Armor
Jeanne’s upper thighs are protected with plate armor, but she has left her lower legs unprotected in this assembly. This choice reflects her preference for greater mobility while wearing the armor.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/avant-upper-leg-armour.html
TIP: When choosing your armor protection, ensure that it aligns with the layers you wear underneath and the other armor parts you select, especially for your arms and legs. It would be unfortunate to have a beautifully assembled suit of armor that doesn’t fit together or doesn’t align with your mail. Unsure about something? Feel free to send us a message!
Armor Belt
Often, an arming doublet or other gambeson was equipped with points to attach armor for the lower body, but this was not always the case. To secure greaves and mail skirts to the body, an armor belt was frequently worn.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/medieval-armor-belt-black.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/medieval-armor-belt-natural.html
Mail Hauberk
Although Jeanne does not wear mail in our assembly, many soldiers and knights of the time did. The haubergon, a type of mail with short sleeves, became increasingly common in the fifteenth century due to developments in arm armor. Italian and French knights continued to use full-length mail until the end of the fifteenth century, while in England and the Holy Roman Empire, mail was divided into voiders and mail skirts to reduce weight.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/halflong-hauberk-mixed-flat-rings-wedge-rivets-8m.html
Gauntlets
Although Jeanne does not wear gauntlets in this assembly, she likely used them on the battlefield. It is up to you whether to include them in your assembly. These would have been contemporary gauntlets:
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/15th-century-jousting-gauntlets.html
TIP: You can adjust your mail to fit your size by removing rings, but a simple method is to tie the sleeves with leather cords at the elbows.
Weapons
After acquiring a horse and armor to lead her army, Jeanne was also offered a sword, which she declined, claiming that God had already chosen a weapon for her. This was an ancient sword with an inscription of five crosses, which she had unearthed behind the church in the village of Sainte-Catherine-de-Fierbois. No one except Jeanne knew that this sword was buried there, leading some of her allies to suspect her of witchcraft. In this assembly, we have chosen a single-handed sword, but since the sword from Fierbois was never clearly described, it could also have been a longsword. On the battlefield, she would have also carried a polearm such as a spear or guisarme (billhook). Here are some options to choose from:
Sword of Fierbois, single-handed
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/sword-of-maximilian-i.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/13th-century-sword-neuchatel.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/crusader-sword.html
Sword of Fierbois, two-handed
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/two-handed-knight-sword-battle-ready-with-leather.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/deepeeka-hand-and-a-half-sword-musee-de-cluny.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/hand-and-a-half-sword-battle-ready-tempered.html
Polearms
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/bill-5999285.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/large-medieval-spearhead-approx-52-cm.html
Shaft for Polearms
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/ash-shaft.html
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/manau-wooden-shaft.html
Dagger
Jeanne also carries a rondel dagger on her belt, designed to penetrate the gaps in plate armor in case she encounters another heavily armored opponent in battle. In daily life, this dagger was also used by ordinary women as a self-defense weapon.
https://www.celticwebmerchant.co.uk/roundel-1400-1450.html
The Perfect Armor
Contrary to popular belief, armor was not intended to make the wearer completely invulnerable. Armor was always a compromise between mobility and protection. This compromise is evident in the difference between battlefield armor and tournament armor (all of our armor is battlefield armor). During tournaments, much heavier but less mobile armor was worn to protect the wearer as much as possible from a lance's blow. This was feasible because tournaments were not meant to be life-or-death struggles but rather displays of skill. On the battlefield, mobility was far more important, resulting in battlefield armor that offered less protection but was lighter and allowed for greater freedom of movement.
Historically, armor was worn by individuals who were fully trained and specialized in warfare of their time. It is clear that these individuals made many choices between protection and mobility, often based on function and personal preference. For example, many foot soldiers wore less protection on their lower legs for comfort during marches, while cavalry were often more fully armored. Knights sometimes chose to protect their hands with armored gauntlets that restricted finger movement, while others preferred gauntlets with individual fingers. Consider what is important to you and adjust your armor components and assembly according to your own preferences.
On medieval battlefields, only the aristocracy wore fully custom-made armor. The rest of the army wore armor that was either assembled from various pieces or inherited from previous owners. These soldiers adjusted the collected pieces to their size and decorated them with religious symbols and their lord’s heraldry. The armor components we sell are not custom-made but are adjustable. As the owner of armor, you will often need to adjust it to fit your measurements for the most comfortable fit. You can do this by lengthening straps, adding straps, adjusting arm and leg pieces, and adding laces.
For more information on modifying mail and armor, see our knowledge base.